Trip Report for the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, July 2009

• Start Date: July 14, 2006 (2.6′ on the Middle Fork Lodge Gauge)
• End Date: July 19, 2006 (2.4′ on the Middle Fork Lodge Gauge)

I now know why this is considered Idaho’s premier river — it incredible! Although we did this trip in six days, it could easily be stretched into seven, and in fact seven days would allow for more side hikes and exploring.

Day 0 (July 13, 2006)

We arrived at the Boundary Creek put-in the night before we launched. There is a small campground that costs a few dollars per night. Even though it was very warm during the day, it was down right cold at night!

The Boundary Creek Campground

Day 1 (July 14, 2006)

The first day was the longest it seemed. It took a great deal of time to organize and rig the boats, and there were other groups doing the same thing so the ramp was crowded at times. Plus, it was hot and sunny in the morning and we are excited about the trip!

Loading gear on the rafts

Getting ready to slide the boats down the wooden ramp

There is a long and steep boat ramp used to slide the rafts into the water. We loaded the boats and then held onto the boat to keep it from sliding out of control. One person held a rope tied to the back of the boat for when it went into the water.

Sliding my 16' Cat down the wooden ramp

Ken's 14' boat sliding off the end of the ramp into the Middle Fork

We finally got going sometime after noon. At 2.6′ the river is bony and rocky at the top. We rafted about six miles the first day and it was a very long six miles and I got hung up several times. The first rapid that we stopped to scout was Sulphur Slide (mile 2.9). It is an easy scout on the left side and allows you to watch other boaters run it. At 2.6′ the run was far left and was very straightforward. Like most of the rapids, there are numerous rocks, both visible and submerged, that you must watch out for.

Further down around mile 5.1 is Velvet Falls. The run generally is far left. Unfortunately prior to Velvet Falls I got pinned sideways on a rock. This was the worst pin of the trip in which the upriver tube was pushed under water. I had Theresa get off the cat (we were right along the left bank) because I was concerned the cat might flip. One of the boaters in our group rammed me with his boat but it didn’t free me. I jumped up and down on the frame, rocked side to side, and finally walked out on the front cooler, way out on the nose, before I spun off and pulled into an eddy to pick up Theresa. As a bonus, Theresa found a new Rescuse throw bag!

I entered the eddie on river left just above Velvet. Wow! Velvet falls runs the full width of the river and was about a 4 foot drop. The left side had a stairstep feature, but on the way down I got hung up on the rocks and had to bounce off. One member of our group, Jerry, ran Velvet just left of center and said he hardly got wet.

Our first camp site had a nice sandy beach with plenty of areas for tents.

Camp site the first night

Entertainment provided by Jason

Day 2 (July 15, 2009)

The Middle Fork of the Salmon is rocky and I found myself hung up more and more. I was tired right from the start, having over exerted myself the day before. My advise: drink plenty of water! There are several fun and straightforward rapids. The most notable is Powerhouse Rapid (mile 11.3). At this flow the river is slow enough to allow plenty of time to pick and choose a line, but because the water is shallow in spots I hit several slightly submerged rocks which spun me around or popped my oar out. I would not recommend pins and clips for this river, at least not at a low flow.

The old Powerhouse for which Powerhouse Rapid is named

Powerhouse Rapid (very long)

My wife, Theresa, and I enjoying the experience.

Scott and Theresa

I was so wore out by lunch time that Denise took over the oars on my cat. By now I had been pinned several times, most notably at Velvet Falls, and I had been hung up numerous times in which I had to lift and push my cat of the rocks. My running joke was that I had to do the “Fred Flinstone” every time I ran over the rocks. I was beat.

I was going to switch with Denise and run the cat through Pistol Creek Rapid (mile 21.7) since we expected big pushy waves in the tight S-turn. Unfortunately, the leader misread the map and thought we still had a mile to go. There are two channels leading into Pistol Creek Rapid and both are rocky. I watched Jerry get hung up in the left channel and then Ken got hung up as well. Jerry tried to ferry to the right near the bottom of the left channel and toar a hole in the bottom of his floor on a submerged rock. We took the right channel and got hung up, and waited for the others to free themselves. It was easy enough to pick up and slide the boat off (I had done this many, many times already). None of us knew that we were heading immediately into Pistol Creek Rapid! As Denise entered the rapid she popped an oar out of the oar lock and got spun backwards. I was sitting on the front cooler and Theresa was on the back cooler. I leaned back and helped get the oar back in place and Denise got us turned around facing forward. It was a tense few seconds. We slid past the cliff wall on river left then made the tight S-turn and slid off the rocks on river right and into the big pool below. This was a fun ride up front! Looking back I am glad we didn’t stop to scout. I wanted to run it again.

The second night we stayed at the Pungo Campsight.

Day 3 (July 16, 2006)

Loading the boats for another fun day.

Pungo Campsite

We stopped at the Sunshine Hot Springs (mile 33.0) for lunch. The water was almost too hot to get into the hot tubs. There was a crude but functional shower constructed using a log and this was just right for a refreshing shower. Here Vicky and Jerry enjoy the view from the hot springs above.

Sunshine Hot Springs

We stopped further down river to look at some pictographs that were just a short hike on river left.

Scott by the pictographs

Pictographs

We camped at the Whitie Cox campsite. There is a shallow hot spring a short hike from the river next to Whitie’s grave. Mike took an opportunity to fly fish.

Relaxing at the Whitie Cox Campsite

Mike was very successful fly fishing

The shallow hot springs at Whitie Cox campsite

Day 4 (July 17, 2006)

We encountered only a handful of other rafters. Usually all we saw were sweep boasts moving gear to the next campsite. These boats look to be 20+ feet long yet they handle the lower water surprisingly well. They can only move side to side and I was rammed by one accidentally.

The commericial outfitters use sweep boats to haul gear downriver

On this day the only rapids of note were Tappan Falls (mile 57.9). We stopped to scout on the right and it appeared to be a very straightforward run on the right side. This is big and powerful and setting up correctly is very important! Theresa and I watched as the others made the run and took pictures. Here Ken and Denise run Tappan Falls at about 2.5′

Ken and Denise run Tappan Falls at 2.5'

Just past Tappen Falls is Tappen II and Tappen III, both rated class III in our guide book. I didn’t notice much of a rapid in either case though.

We stayed at Pool Camp. There are some tall trees that provide shade but overall this was a hot and windy campsite. There are cliffs on the opposite side of the river but the water was too shallow to jump in. Some of the women took an opportunity to take a refreshing bath in the pools.

The kitchen at Pool Camp

Day 5 (July 18, 2006)

The flow picks up and I didn’t get hung up at all. Coming into the Flying B Ranch (mile 66.8) we witnessed a doe and two fawns crossing the river in front of us. After stopping at the Flying B Ranch for ice cream and goodies, we ran into Haystack Rapid (mile 67.5) At 2.5′ this is an easy rapid to navigate, but it is busy with rocks everywhere!

We stayed at what is probably the best campsite on the river, Elk Bar. This campsite sits in a deep canyon that provides early evening shade. There is a long, flat sandy beach with a stunning down river view. Most groups pass up this site since it is makes for a long 20 mile last day.

At the end of the beach was a huge tree that made an excellent diving board and we all took turns diving off it.

The down river view from Elk Bar Campsite

Scott diving off the tree at Elk Bar Campsite

Theresa walking out on the tree at Elk Bar Campsite

Elk Bar Campsite was the best campsite on the Middle Fork

Day 6 (July 19, 2006)

The last day had the most and best rapids of the trip and we also saw several mountain goats.

Mountain Goats

The only rapid we scouted was Devils Tooth (mile 93.3). It is an easy scout from river left and also provides a great photo opportunity. We watched Jason and Cindy run first. At this flow, 2.4′, the run is to the right. Even though Devil’s Tooth is ominous, the run is easy and straightforward. Just make sure you set up properly!

Scott and Theresa at Devil's Tooth Rapid

Jason and Cindy setting up to run Devil's Tooth Rapid at 2.4'

Jason and Cindy run Devil's Tooth at 2.4'